Everything about Cognac Drink totally explained
Cognac, named after the town of
Cognac in
France, is a
brandy produced in the region surrounding the town. It must be made from at least 90%
Ugni Blanc,
Folle Blanche, or
Colombard grapes. The remainder may consist of the
grape varieties Folignan,
Jurançon blanc,
Meslier St-François,
Montils, and
Sémillon, however, most cognac is made from Ugni Blanc only. It must be distilled twice in
copper pot stills and aged at least two years in French
oak barrels that are sealed airtight in order to be called cognac.
A similar drink, but distilled in a different way and produced in another region is
armagnac from
Armagnac. There is also
calvados based on apples from the
Basse-Normandie or Lower Normandy region, and plum brandy from
Souillac.
The town of Cognac is one of only three officially demarcated
brandy regions in Europe; the others are the French town of
Armagnac and the Spanish town of
Jerez.
Producing region and legal definitions
The region authorised to produce cognac is divided up into six zones, including five
crus (singular
cru), broadly covers the department of
Charente-Maritime, a large part of the department of
Charente and a few areas in
Deux-Sèvres and the
Dordogne. The six zones are, in order of decreasing appreciation of the cognacs coming from them:
Grande Champagne,
Petite Champagne (also known as "Petite Fine Champagne"),
Borderies,
Fins Bois,
Bons Bois, and
Bois Ordinaires(the only zone without "cru" status).
A cognac made from just the first two of these crus (with at least 50% from Grande Champagne) is called "fine
champagne cognac" ("
champagne" coming in both cases from archaic words meaning chalky soil, a characteristic of both areas).
Even within the defined region, if a brandy is produced that fails to meet any of the strict criteria set down by the governing body of cognac production, the BNIC—Bureau National Interprofessionel du Cognac—it may not be called cognac, nor sold as such.
Brandy produced elsewhere in France or any other part of the world can't legally be called "cognac".
- It must be produced within the delimited region, from wine using certain grape varieties;
- It must be obtained through double distillation, in typical copper Charentais stills;
- It must be aged in French oak barrels, which give it part of its color and part of its taste.
Many of the cognac producers in the town of Cognac and the surrounding area allow visitors to taste their product; the bigger companies have guided tours to show visitors how the cognac is made.
Production Process
Cognac is made from
eaux-de-vie (literally, "waters of life") produced by doubly distilling the white wines produced in any of the growth areas. The wine is a very dry, acidic, thin wine, not really suitable for drinking, but excellent for distillation. It may only be made from a strict list of grape varieties. Distillation takes place in traditionally shaped Charentais copper
stills, also known as an
alembic, the design and dimensions of which are also legally controlled. Two distillations must be carried out; the resulting eau-de-vie is a colourless spirit of about 70% alcohol.
Cognac may not be sold to the public, or indeed called 'Cognac', until it has been aged for at least two years, counting from the end of the period of distillation (
1 April following the year the grapes were harvested).
During the aging, a large percentage of the alcohol (and water) in the eaux-de-vie evaporates through the porous oak barrels. This is termed locally the "
part des anges", or angels' share, a phrase also used in
whisky production.
A black
fungus,
Baudoinia compniacensis (Richon) Scott & Unter., thrives on the alcoholic vapours and normally grows on the walls of the ageing cellars.
The final product is usually diluted to 40% alcohol content (80
proof) with pure and distilled water. Major manufacturers add a small proportion of
caramel to colour their cognacs (at least the less expensive qualities); it's claimed that this doesn't affect the flavour.
The age of the cognac is calculated as that of the youngest eau-de-vie used in the blend. The blend is usually of different ages and (in the case of the larger and more commercial producers) from different local areas. This blending, or
marriage, of different eaux-de-vie is important to obtain a complexity of flavours absent from an eau-de-vie from a single distillery or vineyard. Each cognac house has a master taster (
maître de chai) who is responsible for creating this delicate blend of spirits, so that the cognac produced by a company today will taste almost exactly the same as a cognac produced by that same company 50 years ago, or in 50 years' time. In this respect it may be seen to be similar to a blended
whisky or non-vintage
Champagne, which also rely on blending to achieve a consistent brand flavour.
Hundreds of vineyards in the Cognac AOC region sell their own cognac. These are likewise blended from the eaux-de-vie of different years, but they're single-vineyard cognacs, varying slightly from year to year and according to the taste of the producer, hence lacking some of the predictability of the better-known commercial products. Depending on their success in marketing, small producers may sell a larger or smaller proportion of their product to individual buyers, wine dealers, bars and restaurants, the remainder being acquired by larger cognac houses for blending. The success of artisanal cognacs (and of single malt whiskies) has compelled some larger producers to market single-vineyard cognacs from vineyards that they own. A recent example of this is the cognac house
Hennessy, who released Izambard, Le Peu and Camp Romain, being three of their distilleries, in 1999.
Grades
The unofficial grades used to market cognac include:
VS Very Special or *** (three stars), where the youngest brandy is stored at least three years in cask, but on average a total of five years in cask.
VSOP Very Special (or Superior) Old Pale, or Réserve, where the youngest brandy is stored at least four and a half years in cask, but the average wood age is much older.
XO Extra Old, Cordon Bleu Centeur and Antique, where the youngest brandy is stored at least six years and a half in cask, but average 20 years upwards.
Note: these 'grades' are not official cognac grades (they are appropriate for brandy) and are simply marketing labels used by certain high profile cognac brands. More traditional cognac houses don't use these grades.
The crus where the grapes were grown can also be used to define the cognac, and give a guide to some of the flavour characteristics of the cognac:
Grande Champagne (13766 hectares total) Grande Champagne eaux de vie are long in the mouth and powerful, dominated by floral notes. The most prestigious of the crus. "Champagne" means chalky soil, a characteristic shared with the area around Reims where Champagne is produced.
Petite Champagne (16171 hectares total) Petite Champagne eaux de vie have similar characteristics to those from Grande Champagne, but are in general shorter on the palate.
Borderies (4160 hectares total) The smallest cru, eaux de vie from the Borderies are the most distinctive, with nutty aromas and flavour, as well as a distinct violet or iris characteristic. Cognacs made with a high percentage of these eaux de vie, for example, "Cordon Bleu" by Martell, are dominated by these very sought-after flavours.
Fins Bois (34265 hectares total) Heavier and faster ageing eaux de vie suitable for establishing the base of some cognacs. Rounded and fruity, with an agreeable oiliness.
Bons Bois
Bois Ordinaires (19979 hectares together with Bons Bois). Further out from the four central growth areas are the Bons Bois and the Bois Ordinaires. With a poorer soil and very much influenced by the maritime climate, this area of 20,000 hectares produces eaux de vie that are less demonstrative and age more quickly. These lesser crus are excluded from blends by some manufacturers.
The growth areas are tightly defined; there exist pockets with soils atypical of the area producing eaux de vie that may have characteristics particular to their location. Hennessy usually uses the unofficial brandy grades for its cognac offerings, but has also produced three single distillery cognacs each with very distinctive flavours arising from the different soils and, to a lesser extent climate. Other cognac houses, such as Moyet, exclusively use the crus to describe their different cognacs.
The top cognac houses also produce premium-level cognacs. These include:
Extra by Camus is their premium cognac beyond XO containing their oldest cognacs from the Borderies, Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne regions in a distinctive decanter style bottle.
Louis XIII by Rémy Martin is composed of more than 1,200 of the finest eaux-de-vie aged a minimum 55 years (usually 65-100+) in very old Limousin oak barrels, presented in exclusively hand made Baccarat crystal decanter, and individually numbered and owner registered.
Richard Hennessy - produced by Hennessy, 'Richard' is a blend of over 100 eaux-de-vie aged up to 200 years. It is sold in a Baccarat crystal blackman and is named after the founder of the company.
L'Esprit de Courvoisier - Courvoisier's leading cognac, presented in a hand-cut Lalique decanter, blended from eaux-de-vie up to 200 years old, and individually numbered.
Moyet Antiques - Moyet's Très Vieille Fine Champagne and Très Vieille Grand Champagne cognacs blended from some barrels over 150 years old, individually numbered and signed by the cellar master.
Brands
Brands of cognac include:
A. E. Dor
Bache-Gabrielsen
Braastad
Brillet
Bisquit
CMG Cognac
Camus
Chateau Beaulon
Chateau Montifaud
Chateau des Plassons
Courvoisier
Delamain
Dupuy
Francet
Frapin
Gaston de Casteljac
Gautier
Godet
Grönstedts
Guerbé
Hennessy
Hine
Jaques Delorme
Jean Fillioux
Jules Gautret
Kelt
Landy
Larsen
Lautrec
Leopold Gourmel
Maison Surrenne
Maxime Trijol
Martell
Meukow
Moyet
Otard
Paul Giraud
Paul Monier
Pierre Ferrand
Planat
Prince Hubert de Polignac
Prunier
Ragnaud-Sabourin
Rémy Martin
Raynal
Tesseron
Origin
Cognac and Hip-hop culture
Since the early 1990s, cognac has seen a significant transformation in its American consumer base, from a predominantly older, affluent white demographic to a younger, urban, and significantly black consumer. Cognac has become ingrained in hip-hop culture, celebrated in songs by artists ranging from Tupac Shakur to Busta Rhymes to Lil Jon and Jay-Z, among many others. It is estimated that between 60% and 80% of the American cognac market now comprises African American consumers, the majority of whom have indicated in studies that the endorsement of popular musical artists is a key factor in their preference for the drink(External Link
), which also spawned its nickname 'Yak' (or 'Yack'). Moreover, Pernod-Ricard, the maker of Martell, has acknowledged that "the USA is the biggest market for cognac and African-Americans are a priority target"(External Link
) Many have credited hip-hop culture as the savior of cognac sales in the USA; after nearly floundering in 1998 due to economic crisis in Asia—cognac's main export market at the time—sales of cognac increased to approximately $US 1 billion in America in 2003(External Link
), a growth paralleled by (but not necessarily related to) hip-hop's rise into the mainstream of American music.
Further Information
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